Patali Gur (Date Palm Sugar)

Image from Gilt Taste
During my last trip to India, I discovered what the Bengalis call patali gur. It is sugar extracted from the sap of date palm trees. It's darker in color and richer in flavor. Sumit's aunts brought a large chunk of the stuff from Kolkata and made traditional kheer (Indian rice pudding) with it. I'd had kheer in the past and was never a huge fan. People love it, but to me it was usually just warm, sugary rice milk. Nothing too memorable. The kheer made with patali gur, however, was something very different. The gur imparted a caramel-ly, smoky flavor to the kheer. It was intensely rich, incredibly delicious, and definitely memorable. At the time, I was lucky enough to bring some of it back with me. I used it sparingly and made kheer only for special occasions. But eventually, it was used up. I had been searching for it in vain on the internet and in Indian grocery stores ever since, and only recently came across it on Gilt Taste. When I discovered that the seller, Food Connect Inc., was in the warehouse district in Los Angeles, I decided to bypass the shipping fees and pick it up myself. It may have been a dangerous move. In the past week I've not only made kheer with it, but also almond halwa (twice), and cookies. I'll post recipes and pictures here soon. I'm going to try using it in more non-traditional recipes, like the cookies. In that recipe, I substituted it for some of the brown sugar required with great results.

Comments

Gautam said…
Very nice to hear that you discovered khejur patali. I have been trying to introduce the sugars to the sugar date palm [Phoenix sylvestris] to the larger world outside Bengal, east and west. Perhaps enthusiastic lovers of food like you will spread the word as no one else can.

Since you have become fond of the foodways of Bengal, let us sort out a few terms that can potentially create confusion. KHEER in Bangla [the language of Bengal] is NOT what goes by that name in northern India, and what you call "watery rice pudding".

Bengali PAYESH is similar to the stuff that in northern India, and horrible restaurants, is called KHEER, but there the resemblance ends!! Making a Bengali PAYESH is like making American FRUIT PIES: varied in type, and requiring skill! PAAYESH is never pallid and never watery!!

BASMATI or aromatic rices come in three genetic forms: the long grain, the medium and the mini grain. The last are common in Bengal and should be used, unless you find the KETAKI variety from Assam. These rices are slightly glutinous, and offer body to the finished product. Rice should be well washed, soaked for a short while, and drained on cotton towels until air dry.

Then, take high quality gaowa ghee, which is traditional cultured yoghurt ghee cooked down over a smoky low fire [e.g. Laksmi Ghee, or traditional ghees, not buffalo ghee] and rub a good dollop into your palm preparatory to taking a small handful of the rice and gently massaging in the ghee, Do this to ALL the rice, and set aside.

Only when this has been complete, can you ritually begin to turn your attention to the milk. This is like the koshering process in Judaic cooking!! Per US gallon of organic FRESH cow milk, add a pint or more of fresh, non-homogenized excellent cream and set in a wonderful heavy pan on a medium low flame over a heat diffuser. bring to a low simmer, and keep reducing until 3/4 gone.

If you keep on reducing the milk, without adding anything, until it is raggedy and almost gone, but still fairly liquid, THAT is the Bengali KHEER, a couple of steps before KHOYA. This is eaten as is, sweetened, with so many of Bengal's cooked breads, and is itself the base of many of Bengal's home-made confections.

Now let us return to the simmering milk. You need some experience here. How much you reduce will affect the thickness of the PAAYESH. In some circumstances, etc. offerings for some pujas, the payesh is made very thick, with a lot of ghee used in the initial rice. Home cooks make their payeshmuch more fluid, and use very little ghee, if any, to massage their rice. You should find your happy mean.

To use gur, you need to dissolve it in warm water and keep it in a separate bowl. Add this at the very end, as you shut off the heat, and the payesh goes off the simmer. ONLY then stir in the gur slurry. This will preserve the aroma, and prevent any curdling or other untoward experiences, like the rice not softening. The rice will not soften nicely if you add sugars along with it, so it must cook gently on its own. Remember this.

Another great Bengali variation is to reduce high quality milk to the pre-kheer [sensu Bengal] stage, sweeten enough with white sugar, and remove from simmer. Have ready peeled, skiined tangerine sections, and gently stir those in. Eat warm. This is kamala lebur Paayesh.

Another great palm sugar is called NOLEN GUR. This is prepared from the initial taps of the palm. It is a light golden syrup, comparable to grade A maple syrup. What is done with this is too yummy to recount in just a single post!!!!
Unknown said…
I just loved your comment. Goes to show how much you love the way of cooking...
Unknown said…
I just loved your comment. Goes to show how much you love the way of cooking...

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